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Post by The Great High Lord Beer on Oct 21, 2021 20:42:17 GMT
Are there any other signs of incompetence, chewed up screws, rounded off bolts, dodgy wiring, any clues that could confirm suspicions you should walk away π€
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Post by comstar on Oct 21, 2021 20:55:42 GMT
ouch! I hate to say this (sorry before I even begin) but please dont turn that engine over again before you get the rocker cover off. gasket goo on the base gasket for me is a walk away scenario (again sorry for bad news) theres just no way you can be sure that the critical oilways are not blocked/restricted, if they are blocked the oil light will probably still function as it should (pressure switch just below that oilway). if the valve gear is functioning as expected (though from what you've said I'd suspect maybe a bent inlet or two?) then check that oil is coming up at the outer cam journals, paying very careful attention to the one on the stator side, if its not flowing well its a top end off job Heard and understood Paul.
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Post by comstar on Oct 21, 2021 21:01:00 GMT
Are there any other signs of incompetence, chewed up screws, rounded off bolts, dodgy wiring, any clues that could confirm suspicions you should walk away π€ Not too much but there is evidence of some minor bodgery. But it's a very cheap bike. Up and running and in good nick these make at least 2000 dollars plus here now. They really are the USA Superdream, parts are still so plentiful and that's the beauty of these machines and the SD in the UK. Everything is out there still.
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Post by The Great High Lord Beer on Oct 21, 2021 21:06:26 GMT
Well in that case may I recommend a build thread, to work Prince Comstar, failure is not an option, yee shall be judged, as forum ruler you have an example to set to all others.
No pressure π
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Post by comstar on Oct 21, 2021 21:24:00 GMT
I hear you Lord Beer. But I do need some luck on my side and the right back up spares (that damn CM400A) if I am to have the enthusiasm to proceed with having a go at sorting the engine. Please let your powers that be possibly lean on this man and help him make the right decision. So this brings a question for those of you in the know regarding the spare engine option. Thinking at $200 it could possibly be used as a good source of spares, even if not intending to fit the complete mill. If I were to investigate this option later on after looking at my own engine more closely.....what checks could be done to ensure this engine is good on the sellers premises? Assuming I took a fully charged battery of course and checked the condition of oil on the dipstick first. Probably none I'm guessing (apart from using my ears again)....but still no guarantee all will be well of course.
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Post by The Great High Lord Beer on Oct 21, 2021 21:38:06 GMT
The eternal question of should I, shouldn't I, can any help be given from pictures and limited knowledge of the engines in question, probably not, unfortunately the proof of engine worthiness can only answered by complete strip down, or take thy chances, given the low prices of all involved, buy the engine as a backup, I would spent more time investigating the original, many times I have feared the worst only to be proven wrong by the simplest of solutions, delving deep will answer your questions πΊ
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Post by buster on Oct 21, 2021 22:07:54 GMT
over here in blighty I'd pay the equivalent of $200 for a cylinder head/camshaft/rocker gear and be quite happy. other good news, the base gaskets (genuine) are available (I use pattern gasket kits on my engines but I throw the base gasket away and use genuine) there are some tools you will need, some sort of valve removing tool (Β£30 over here) valve grinding sucker doobery (Β£10 maybe) a hone is useful and a torque wrench with a suitable range, oh and one of those window scraper thingymujigs with a stanley knife blade in them for removing old gasket, quick tip when the scrapers new, write your name on a window in permanent marker and then practise removing it with the scraper, that way you learn not to dig at the alloy.
before I get ahead of myself though, have a look at the crankcase joint behind the stator and see what the sealant looks like
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Post by duffer on Oct 22, 2021 8:06:19 GMT
All of Busters comments, and welcome to the club... We will have you restoring the Titanic before you know it. Oh... get a bigger shed. See CTB for details ππ
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Post by johnjones on Oct 22, 2021 12:40:50 GMT
Comstar,
you have been around superdreams for many years and I am sure read thousands of threads about engine problems and remedies, so should be able to work on one.
By work on one I mean more than an oil change, basic servicing and being an auto solvasol technician.
So you should have a good idea of the internals, there workings and access by now. If you don't then you have not been paying attention !!
Some real work to come....flywheel magnets are quite delicate....
Of course you will know what special tools you will no doubt need....
Remember about CMSNL exploded views which can only help you.
Enjoy, take your time but don't lick the barrier cream π
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Post by comstar on Oct 22, 2021 17:11:13 GMT
Thanks JJ et al. Yes of course everyone is right about this.....I should crack on with it for sure. In the years I have been around superdreams I have done lots of things.....but I have never done any kind of engine strip as yet....as I said, I have been lucky so far. So.....now could be the time to expand my mechanical knowledge....I see it as an opportunity.
I've slept on it overnight (in bed not on the bike) and I am now eager to get the generator cover off and the rocker cover so that we can all have a look at first and try and see what may be going on....as well as all the valuable help on the forum, you tube also has some decent stuff. I think one of my biggest nightmares would be dropping the cam chain into the bottom end. Hey ho here we go. (Where can I find a pair of gloves like that?)
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Post by comstar on Oct 22, 2021 17:19:28 GMT
All of Busters comments, and welcome to the club... We will have you restoring the Titanic before you know it. Oh... get a bigger shed. See CTB for details ππ I might have to put you on speed dial Steve.
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Post by johnjones on Oct 22, 2021 17:56:30 GMT
A nicely staged video...and you think yours is gunna come apart as easily, lol.....
Rags are very usefully as is wood.
The cam chain has an anti drop off shelf just below it's crank sprocket, but the chain may jam...dropping the sprocket bolts would be more problematic, hence rags...but magnets are useful things.
For those interested the 400 Conrods will pass thru the cylinder bores, 250's won't.
Just take your time and enjoy, it's not a race.
Research a flywheel puller and clutch pedal spanner also, see CMSNL for what's involved with the automatic transmission if yours is that type...
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Post by comstar on Oct 22, 2021 18:09:49 GMT
Research a flywheel puller and clutch pedal spanner also, see CMSNL for what's involved with the automatic transmission if yours is that type... Thanks John. No it's a 5 speed manual. I have been offered a CM400A (automatic) as well but that bike has a jammed engine and stripped kickstarter shaft.....also has no paperwork so I will be using that one for spares if I eventually get it, there are a lot of interchangeable parts although most not engine related of course.
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Post by kickstart on Oct 22, 2021 18:18:39 GMT
What a bargain , love the CM as you know π
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Post by duffer on Oct 22, 2021 19:42:44 GMT
All of Busters comments, and welcome to the club... We will have you restoring the Titanic before you know it. Oh... get a bigger shed. See CTB for details ππ I might have to put you on speed dial Steve. Amongst the new tools...an air, or battery powered impact driver with a set of sockets. Just like you see in the tyre shops. Best tool I have used to release both cylinder bolts and engine mounting bolts. Best advice I can give you, if it is not going how you think it should, stop. Leave it for the next day, so you can think about it before you break it. π
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