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Post by BritPete on Oct 25, 2022 10:58:52 GMT
yep, hard to find good grab rails though I think the rubber mounts are available perfect, I have a slightly pitted but ok set and will fit them. I have the brackets and rubber indicator mounts too. I am baffled why they had rubber plugs in them (mine are missing) because with the indicators fitted the end of the rail does not show. The rubber plugs hold the indicators steady and damp vibration Sure you can make something up
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Post by rustyrescue on Oct 25, 2022 14:48:12 GMT
I have the rubbers that insert into the indicator and slip over the flat metal bracket on the rail end. The indicators I have fit with cut outs to go over the rail. Looking at pictures on line some have rails with plugs in the end but the indicators fitted onto the frame/mudguard area. Others look like the parts I have, indicators on the end of the grab rails. Did they alter with years?
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Post by BritPete on Oct 25, 2022 14:59:14 GMT
The - as showroom- indicators fitted to the grab rails
You will see a few fitting to other places, that I would think be the impact of position when fitting a rack
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Post by BritPete on Oct 25, 2022 15:02:29 GMT
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Post by rustyrescue on Oct 25, 2022 21:27:15 GMT
excellent....mine will be correct if a wee bit scabby!! but I like original.
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 11, 2022 18:55:45 GMT
The bike is ready to test ride now with exception of the left cylinder running issue. It is not spark....I have done all the tests for that. The symptoms are....starts on two cylinders on choke, running a bit too fast. Can come off choke quite quick (no load) and soon settles into a smooth idle on right cylinder only!! Once warm if I build revs up (no load in garage) the second cylinder kicks in at about 4-5000 revs and it races off. At about 3-4000 revs the left cylinder pops and bangs/misfires. Drop the revs and left one cuts off again. I can only think despite cleaning out the carbs it has an issue still on the left one. Any ideas?? CB400N
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Post by johnjones on Nov 11, 2022 20:36:58 GMT
Those red neons will rule out loss of HT.....
If no HT loss, and cylinder has good compression, and no exhaust problem, then that only really leaves carbs....
You could arrange via clear plastic pipe and drain screws, as long as drain screw o rings are good, actual fuel level in float chamber at the time the problem happens....
You sure this is not heat related ?
IE, it's ok until it warms up, engine wise....
Red neon test to rule HT problem out.
How are plug colours ?
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 11, 2022 21:02:53 GMT
Hi, I am sure its not heat related, left drops out before the engine is more than slightly warm. Both downpipes initially get warm on start up then the left one drops off. It is not HT I feel sure too. I would quite like to know what I am looking for in the carbs....I think it could be the slow running part of the circuit, explaining why it picks up at higher revs when the pistons lift significantly. Or perhaps the piston is not lifting well on that one, though it was all good on strip down.
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Post by buster on Nov 12, 2022 9:51:24 GMT
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 12, 2022 18:01:36 GMT
Thanks I will take a look, I was thinking pilot circuit because it is like the first part of the throttle. I wonder if the rubber bung is not good? Also when I had the carbs apart I removed them as pair easily because the airbox etc also came off first to clean/overhaul that. Can I wriggle out the carbs as a pair with the airbox in place?
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Post by BritPete on Nov 12, 2022 18:36:02 GMT
Thanks I will take a look, I was thinking pilot circuit because it is like the first part of the throttle. I wonder if the rubber bung is not good? Also when I had the carbs apart I removed them as pair easily because the airbox etc also came off first to clean/overhaul that. Can I wriggle out the carbs as a pair with the airbox in place? Yes I have done it a couple of times The air ox rubbers will concertina
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 12, 2022 20:06:25 GMT
perfect thanks, have ordered a couple of pilot circuit cover bungs for good measure.....will take it apart when they arrive. The more I think the more pilot circuit seems logical. The fact on choke it fires on both from cold may mean it is just getting a rich enough mixture on the fast idle setting for it to run. Choke off and it cuts out. We shall see.
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 27, 2022 16:59:18 GMT
carbs off, checked and cleaned. All holes that should be clear seem to be. The rubber bung sealing the idle circuit on left carb was pretty manky so I thought I may have found it. Both bungs replaced with new. It is still not right on the left.....idles surprisingly well on just the right! Are the idle mixture screws air of petrol controlling?? so does backing them out make it richer or leaner. I think I shall go back to checking the balance etc and try again from scratch.....I have never had so much problem making a simple twin run on both carbs right.
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Post by johnjones on Nov 28, 2022 10:03:40 GMT
Did you rule out an engine issue by actually checking ?
Did you rule out an ign problem by actually checking ? A little difficult but as it runs, even sort of, stuff can he checked like AC v and HT consistency and brightness of flash..
Until you do, keep getting dizzy, and ask santa for a wig...
Carbs are last port of call.
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Post by rustyrescue on Nov 29, 2022 9:01:14 GMT
compression good. Valves checked. I know you should not pull plug leads running but it is an old method done briefly. Leave it idling at about 1300rpm, pull right one engine stops. Pull left one it continues running unaltered. Hold the cap of the left one near the plug and it arcs to it...click click click so strong HT. (coil is new too) but revs do not alter. Plugs and leads switched around same issue. After this brief run in garage...although it fired on two initially on choke (both down pipes warm) the left is clearly not running at low revs, if I take the left plug out it has very little burnt deposits on it still clean. The right one is covered in residue as it should be. Therefore I am still on the carb issue...I think there is an invisible fuel feed on the idle/low revs side from the main jet into the idle jet, perhaps that is blocked? It has to be said if I had a known good carb set or left carb it would be easier to just plug in and check! I did just that with a rotary engined car recently and proved I still had issues with a 20 year laid up carb despite 2 cleans. Tempted to find another set and see what happens before I lose the will with it
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