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Post by battlegoat on Oct 10, 2021 16:10:26 GMT
Hi, Mainly out of curiuosity (at the moment...) but could someone please clarify this to me for future reference. Mine is an early CB400N (kicker) model. Going through some maintenance and tests, I also tested the generator to note down the figures for later comparison. After my findings I suspect either a soon failing generator or more likely my superdream is fitted with a version that was made for CB400T. The resistance between the green & white leads (low speed source) is 337 ohms, which is more within the given range for "T" models, according to shop manuals or "Rex's" guide. The resistance between the other leads are perfectly normal. Looking into it further, The CDI has a "C" mark on it, that is also mentioned in the manual for the "T" models with higher frame numbers. The generator is Hitachi, but the flywheel looks slightly different too, and does have the "yellow paint" on de winding screws. It works fineat the moment and if if stays like this I'm happy but I have to keep in mind, she's over 40 years old and sooner or later it will fail (hopefully later..) The question is, when the time comes, should I look for a replacement part (or rewind service) for CB400 "T" or "N" models? Can they be interchanged (mix&match) between these models or is there a major or any difference functionally between these parts at all? Sorry for being dumb, I might just reading too much and overcomplicating the whole thing 😵💫🤓 Thanks in advance for the clarification.
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Post by buster on Oct 10, 2021 19:39:39 GMT
loads of questions and where to begin I may well be wrong on some of this but here goes. the early types (400t/400 kicker) may have had some slight visual differences but were, as far as I know, the same units. they are fairly easy to identify as not many of the doofers (technical term) are actually wound, I think they are a bit 'bare bones' enough to make it run and charge. the later models (dont know when they changed?) had loads more of the afore mentioned doofers wound, which I believe makes for a better charging system, these were also fitted to models in the 450 range on the cdi, I seem to recall that nick once mentioned that the 400 cdi units (marked A?) were a bit unreliable, the later ones should be as reliable as any 40 year old electrical component. any 400/450 cdi should be fine except the 400auto (denso manufactured, like the 250). the 400 stators can be rewound, just make sure your sitting in a suitably supporting chair when you look at the price. they also only seem to supply the later fully wound types (I'd just see that as an upgrade) and if you really want to hear about batshit crazy ideas with stators, have a look at my cb400a thread...
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Post by battlegoat on Oct 10, 2021 20:58:55 GMT
loads of questions and where to begin I may well be wrong on some of this but here goes. the early types (400t/400 kicker) may have had some slight visual differences but were, as far as I know, the same units. they are fairly easy to identify as not many of the doofers (technical term) are actually wound, I think they are a bit 'bare bones' enough to make it run and charge. the later models (dont know when they changed?) had loads more of the afore mentioned doofers wound, which I believe makes for a better charging system, these were also fitted to models in the 450 range on the cdi, I seem to recall that nick once mentioned that the 400 cdi units (marked A?) were a bit unreliable, the later ones should be as reliable as any 40 year old electrical component. any 400/450 cdi should be fine except the 400auto (denso manufactured, like the 250). the 400 stators can be rewound, just make sure your sitting in a suitably supporting chair when you look at the price. they also only seem to supply the later fully wound types (I'd just see that as an upgrade) and if you really want to hear about batshit crazy ideas with stators, have a look at my cb400a thread... Thanks for the reply. At least, it seems that I'm not completely wrong (hopefully 🙃) Lucky to have the "C" type CDI fitted. As of "doofers" I will pull the flywheel later, to have a look (I've seen "BB's" videos of the topic recently, so I think I know what you're referring to...) I wouldn't go as far as modifying it to a 250 system, but good to know even that could work with a "little" tweak in emergency (if that's the part of your thread what you referred to) I know that once it fails it will cost me a few overtime shifts to finance the full refurbishment 😬😬😬 I try to be prepared...
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Post by buster on Oct 11, 2021 12:05:02 GMT
early type and later type basically any of the hitachi units should work on a 400
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Post by battlegoat on Oct 14, 2021 20:49:26 GMT
Just to complete my story, here is the photo of the actual windings after pulling the flywheel (I was surprised how clean it is). This is a fully wound version. And the third photo is a screenshot of my readings versus the comparison chart (Rex's guide),which made me think that an earlier (CB400T) version is fitted to my CB400N.
Blue & white and the three yellows with bullet type connectors:
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Post by buster on Oct 15, 2021 12:25:24 GMT
thats interesting, I thought at first it was a later type that had been fitted as a replacement, the bullet connectors though would suggest that its an early one. it definitely looks like a hitachi unit to me (the advance coils are fairly easy to recognise) and visually it looks in great shape (not that that means a great deal if it doesnt test right). I'm wondering if you've got one of the ones that honda say should test (green and white) at 315-385 ohms? I'd be inclined to take the view that if its not broke dont fix it, which reminds me I must get some breakdown cover...
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