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Post by drip on Dec 16, 2020 10:25:03 GMT
Hi, looking for some advice.
Can bowls be removed from the SD without removing the entire carbs?
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Post by buster on Dec 16, 2020 11:55:33 GMT
you probably could if they were/are on allen bolts, but your pretty limited as to what you can then do with them. its usually easier to take them off completely, that way you can clean things like the float valves and check float heights etc
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Post by comstar on Dec 17, 2020 4:01:13 GMT
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Post by johnjones on Jan 24, 2021 11:37:59 GMT
Yes as the picture shows, but, to increase the driver bit pressure on the screws, a seesaw arrangement under the "rachet" ( maybe t bar better for this ) head
Push down your end, carb end pushed up, if you see what I mean.
It's a good idea to fit new Allan bolts to float bowl and upper chamber.
Then most if not all jets etc can be flushed and or blasted clean.
Don't remove the slow running jet needle from under the front of the carbs if they are still on the engine. You can undo they all the way keeping them up in place, then screw back in two turns.
If you don't know why, see the carb exploded views in the parts books.
Be carefully about any diaphragms in the economy diaphragm chamber, the two screw chamber on the sides of the carbs, they are probably not fitted to 250 carbs but are to 400 carbs I think.
The right carb diaphragm screws will be near impossible to get at with the carbs fitted
Fuel level can be compared carb to carb via the float bowl drain screw system, as you will realise when inspecting them.
I have already been to the carbs on mine 2 weeks ago, after having the new, I say new, new to me, bike.
I flushed the tank and tap with loads of old petrol and rust coming out. I have fitted a Volkswagen type inline fuel filter for now but I am finding out about a fuel tap with a sludge trap and wire screen filter. If I can find a small magnet to fit in the sludge bowl, happy days.
Fine rust particles in the combustion cylinder is not good.
Your carbs may only need a good clean be t is the overflow tube in the float chamber split at all ?
Stay safe out there
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Post by davefirestorm on Jan 25, 2021 9:53:45 GMT
Pain in the arse but you can get the original screws out if heads not chewed you can bend an old screw driver 90 degrees to get at them and replace with 4mm cross heads.When you get bowls off blow out/clean all you can but likely cause of leak is the needle valve,get a cotton bud covered in Solvol Autosol and lap the valve seat in for a few minutes.Good luck👍😁
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Post by duffer on Jan 25, 2021 13:31:21 GMT
All piggin fiddly. I am reminded of that old joke about the gynecologist who decorated his hall stairs and landing whilst outside using only the letterbox for access !
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Post by johnjones on Jan 25, 2021 14:31:18 GMT
A real pita of a job, the triangular head steady plate, and the air hoses that are probably rock hard.
I did mine by starting At the rear light unit, then the tin mudguard and that little illigitamate bolt thru the aitbox, but once the air box is out of the way the job is easier.
I took the manifold stubs off the head with the carbs.
I fitted Allan bolts for the vac chamber and float chamber so future work on the carbs is easier.
I also shortened the left head steady plate bolt a bit.
How are you getting on with the fun ?
Come back prior to refitting for bench balancing and float hieght tips when you are at that stage.
Enjoy, but make it easy for future carb work with those Allan bolts, well worth the effort believe me.
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