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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 15:55:16 GMT
Can anyone help. Engine cuts out after about 5 seconds. If I disconnect the black and white wire that goes to cdi the engine runs on and on revs sweet and all as good apart from you can’t turn engine off with ignition or engine kill. I have checked continuity on wires and all is good. If I connect a test bulb to the black and white I get power on/off at the ignition and the kill switch turns power on/off. Any ideas where the problem lies?
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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 15:56:48 GMT
Btw I have changed all the following off another running bike to make sure there is no fault in that area, cdi, coils and kill switch. Also it’s a new gel battery fitted to the bike.
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Post by buster on Mar 17, 2021 17:13:00 GMT
might be worth disconnecting the clutch switch and also the neutral switch (each in turn) maybe worth trying that little rectifier doofer off one of your other bikes, I think you have one or two to choose from
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Post by comstar on Mar 17, 2021 17:22:39 GMT
Also that silicon diode that sits behind the left hand side cover, a simple plug in thing. Try swapping that out for known good too.
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Mar 17, 2021 18:08:51 GMT
Can anyone help. Engine cuts out after about 5 seconds. If I disconnect the black and white wire that goes to cdi the engine runs on and on revs sweet and all as good apart from you can’t turn engine off with ignition or engine kill. I have checked continuity on wires and all is good. If I connect a test bulb to the black and white I get power on/off at the ignition and the kill switch turns power on/off. Any ideas where the problem lies? The kill switch is open circuit in run, and connects the black and white to earth in kill, but if it is disconnected, no effect is expected.....
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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 18:18:38 GMT
Swapped rectifier - no change, Swapped silicone diode - no change Disconnected clutch switch - no change Disconnected neutral switch - no change 😩😩😩😩😩
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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 18:22:40 GMT
Can anyone help. Engine cuts out after about 5 seconds. If I disconnect the black and white wire that goes to cdi the engine runs on and on revs sweet and all as good apart from you can’t turn engine off with ignition or engine kill. I have checked continuity on wires and all is good. If I connect a test bulb to the black and white I get power on/off at the ignition and the kill switch turns power on/off. Any ideas where the problem lies? The kill switch is open circuit in run, and connects the black and white to earth in kill, but if it is disconnected, no effect is expected..... I might be slow on this but, why does the engine run on with the black and white disconnected at the cdi end. But when I connect it the engine dies.
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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 18:58:04 GMT
Thanks for all your help, ignition switch is at fault, I fortunately 8 haven’t got an NC ignition switch only a earlier model switch so a bit of adaption required.
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Post by buster on Mar 17, 2021 19:53:23 GMT
dont know if this is any use (86 nighthawk had running lights) but your welcome to it if its any use
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Post by CTB on Mar 17, 2021 19:56:58 GMT
Thanks buster but I have a spare that I can adapt 👍
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Mar 17, 2021 20:41:58 GMT
If you have already changed the right hand switch gear, there must be a low insulation somewhere downstream of the bullet connector that the blk/w wire plugs into. the initial symptom of it running 5 seconds makes me think a low resistance rather than a dead short. But where??? I'll go and dig out the circuit diagram So if the right hand switch gear is ok (or I would be insulating the handlebars with ptfe thread tape), the next popular place would be the multi connector it plugs into, where the blk/w wire is adjacent to the green earth. then it could be anywhere upto the ignition switch .... So at the ignition switch it is the same set-up as the kill switch, when the switch is on the path to the CDI bullet connector is open circuit, when the ignition is off the blk/w is connected, and the CDI is connected to earth...
(I think I'll paint the blk/w & green wire solder points on the underside of my pattern ignition switches with some epoxy to insulate them)
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Post by johnfcbn44dx on Mar 17, 2021 21:32:20 GMT
So what is the first diagnostic move? (In addition to the many you have already tried) Cup of Tea? Start the bike with the blk/w bullet disconnected, unplug the the right switch gear, and connect the blk/w bullet= should not die if the fault is r/h switch gear. If it dies, unplug the ignition switch and push out the Blk/w or green blade from the multi-connector and put a temporary bit of tape on the disconnected blade. plug every thing in and see if it works? If that does not work , could there be some sort of conductive crud in the female side of the multi connectors...aggressive WD40 blast at both the Blk/w&Green connection points. I've got all this fun to come, when my kitted bikes get bolted back together Sorry, kept rambling on after you found it.. had not refreshed the other screen
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Post by CTB on Mar 18, 2021 17:26:31 GMT
So what is the first diagnostic move? (In addition to the many you have already tried) Cup of Tea? Start the bike with the blk/w bullet disconnected, unplug the the right switch gear, and connect the blk/w bullet= should not die if the fault is r/h switch gear. If it dies, unplug the ignition switch and push out the Blk/w or green blade from the multi-connector and put a temporary bit of tape on the disconnected blade. plug every thing in and see if it works? If that does not work , could there be some sort of conductive crud in the female side of the multi connectors...aggressive WD40 blast at both the Blk/w&Green connection points. I've got all this fun to come, when my kitted bikes get bolted back together Sorry, kept rambling on after you found it.. had not refreshed the other screen I don’t mind the rambling at all John, really appreciate your input and help, this is what I love about this forum. 👍
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Post by BritPete on Mar 19, 2021 7:50:53 GMT
Carl Have you kept hold of the knackered barrell, be interesting to pull to bits
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